Haystacks
Haystacks at 597 metres is not the highest fell in the Lake District. It is not even in the top fifty. Wainwright chose it as the place where he wanted his ashes scattered, which says everything that needs to be said about its character. The fell is a jumble of rocky outcrops, peat bogs, secret tarns, and narrow paths that weave between the crags without any clear single route. It is an exploration rather than an ascent. Innominate Tarn sits at the heart of the fell, a dark and still pool among the rocks. Blackbeck Tarn is a few minutes away. The fell between the two tarns is where Wainwright's ashes are — or somewhere nearby, since the exact spot was kept private. The place has a quality that is difficult to describe and easy to feel. It is quiet in a way that the popular fells are not. The summit cairn is modest but the views are exceptional. Buttermere and Crummock Water are both visible below. Fleetwith Pike rises to the east. The High Stile ridge fills the south. The view from Haystacks down to Buttermere is the one that appears on more postcards and calendars than almost any other Lake District scene.
Walking
The Buttermere approach (CA13 9XA, NT car park) is the natural start. The path climbs via the Warnscale valley to the south of the fell, gaining the ridge at Scarth Gap between Haystacks and High Crag. From Scarth Gap, the path continues west into the confusing terrain of the fell top. Distance around 5 miles return with 500 metres of ascent. Allow 3 to 4 hours — but plan for longer, as the fell rewards wandering. The Honister approach from the east (CA12 5XN) takes the old quarry tramway track west and then climbs the fell via Fleetwith Pike and the ridge. This approach gives a fuller picture of the fell and is considerably less busy. Around 6 miles return from Honister. The combination that Wainwright recommended — approach from Buttermere, traverse the fell, and descend to Honister — is a fine linear walk of around 7 miles if transport can be arranged at both ends.
Routes
Buttermere via Scarth Gap
Buttermere NT car park
Honister via Fleetwith Pike
Honister Slate Mine car park
Tips
Allow more time than the route suggests. Haystacks rewards exploration and the tarns are worth sitting by. The Fish Inn at Buttermere (CA13 9XA) is the right place to finish. On a clear summer evening, the view from Haystacks down to Buttermere in low light is one of the finest things in the Lake District. Wainwright was right about this one.