Crinkle Crags
Crinkle Crags at 859 metres earns its name. The traverse of the five crinkles is one of the finest ridge walks in the Lake District — each crinkle requiring a short descent and ascent, the ridge constantly changing direction, the ground underfoot constantly interesting. The Bad Step, a 3-metre rock step on the main ridge between the second and third crinkles, is the obstacle that sorts out the different approaches to fell walking. The highest point is the second crinkle from the south. There is a small cairn and, on a good day, views across to Bowfell that make the scrambling worthwhile. The whole ridge looks improbable from below — a series of jagged rocky summits against the sky — and delivers exactly what it promises. The Bad Step is around 3 metres of steep, polished rock. In dry conditions it is manageable for most walkers, requiring a step up on a small ledge and a heave. In wet conditions it is genuinely awkward and has caused falls. The bypass exists — a path drops to the left and rejoins the ridge above — and there is no shame in taking it.
Walking
The standard route from Old Dungeon Ghyll (LA22 9JU) climbs via Red Tarn and Browney Gill to gain the ridge at the southern crinkle. Working north along the crinkles, you reach the Bad Step before the third crinkle, then continue north to Three Tarns and either descend via The Band or extend to Bowfell. The distance is around 9 miles return from the car park with 900 metres of ascent. Allow 6 to 7 hours. A better circuit combines Crinkle Crags with Bowfell: south from Old Dungeon Ghyll via Oxendale to Red Tarn, north along the full Crinkle Crags ridge to Three Tarns, up Bowfell, and down The Band. This is around 10 miles with over 1,000 metres of ascent and is one of the great fell days from Langdale. Start early. The approach from Cockley Beck in Dunnerdale gives a quieter, longer route from the south that very few walkers use. The fell is a different place from this angle — less traversed, wilder feeling.
Routes
Langdale via Red Tarn
Old Dungeon Ghyll NT car park
Tips
The Bad Step is avoidable and bypassing it is perfectly sensible. The step is polished by decades of hands and boots — if it looks difficult when you arrive at it, take the bypass without hesitation. The Crinkle Crags and Bowfell combination is a full mountain day and should be treated as one. The Old Dungeon Ghyll Hikers Bar is one of the best post-walk pubs in the Lakes.