Wainwrights
The Far Eastern Fells: Why Serious Baggers End Up Here
Book Two is the quietest corner of the Wainwrights. High Street, Ill Bell, and a Roman road running across the top of England. If you have not been, you are missing something.
The Far Eastern Fells get fewer visitors than almost any other group in the Wainwrights. This is partly because they are less dramatic than the central and southern fells, and partly because the main access points, Kentmere and Troutbeck, are not as well known as Keswick or Ambleside.
This is their appeal. On a bank holiday weekend when Helvellyn is a parade and Scafell Pike car park is a queue, the High Street ridge can be almost empty. I have walked up Ill Bell on a Saturday in July and not seen another person for three hours.
High Street and the Roman Road
High Street at 828 metres is the highest point in the far eastern group. The name refers to the Roman road that crosses it, one of the highest roads the Romans built in Britain. The broad summit plateau does not look like much but the context is remarkable: you are standing on a road that Roman soldiers marched along nearly two thousand years ago.
The approach from Troutbeck via Thornthwaite Crag and Froswick is the most satisfying route. It takes in several fells in a single day. The Troutbeck car park is at Limefitt Park, LA23 1PA. From there, the path climbs steadily up Troutbeck Tongue before gaining the ridge.
Ill Bell, Froswick, Thornthwaite Crag
The three summits of Ill Bell (757m), Froswick (720m), and Thornthwaite Crag (784m) form a horseshoe around the head of Troutbeck valley. They are three separate Wainwrights, all achievable in a single long day from Troutbeck. Each has its own character. Ill Bell has the best views. Thornthwaite Crag has the impressive beacon, a tall stone pillar on the summit.
The ridge between them is airy and narrow in places without being technical. In good visibility the views east over the Pennines and west towards the Helvellyn range are extensive. In mist, the path is easy to follow.
Kentmere Horseshoe
The Kentmere Horseshoe is arguably the best day walk in the far eastern fells. It takes in Ill Bell, Froswick, Thornthwaite Crag, High Street, Mardale Ill Bell, Harter Fell, and Kentmere Pike in a circuit of about 12 miles. It is a full day, challenging, and requires good navigation in poor visibility.
Start from Kentmere village car park, LA8 9JP. The village is small and quiet. There is no pub, which is a planning consideration. Bring your own food.
Far Eastern Fells in one day: The Kentmere Horseshoe from Kentmere village (LA8 9JP). 12 miles, 950m ascent. Allow 6 to 7 hours. No pub in Kentmere, bring lunch.
Why They Matter for Baggers
Book Two contains 30 fells. A dedicated weekend can cover 10 to 12 of them if you plan the routes carefully. The combination of relative quiet, good ridge walking, and multiple summit access from a single start point makes this area highly efficient for completionists who are filling in gaps.
- →Best base: Ambleside (central) or Troutbeck (closer to the fells)
- →Key access points: Troutbeck (LA23 1PA), Kentmere (LA8 9JP), Mardale (CA10 2RU)
- →Quietest area in the Wainwrights, especially midweek
- →The Kentmere Horseshoe is the best single-day route in the group
- →High Street rewards anyone interested in Roman history
Damian Roche
Founder, Churchtown Media & HikeTheLakes.com
Damian has been walking the Lake District fells for decades. Ex-army, self-taught in SEO, and based in Southport. He's fished the tarns, walked Helvellyn more times than he can count, and built HikeTheLakes because he couldn't find a guide that was honest about conditions and effort. He founded Churchtown Media and runs the Lakes Network.
About Damian